Anti Dandruff Shampoo: How to Pick and Use the Right One
The best anti dandruff shampoo matches the cause of your flakes. Learn which active ingredient suits you, how long to leave it on and how often to wash.
By the Beauty Sassy editors6 min read
The best anti dandruff shampoo contains an active ingredient that targets the cause of your flakes, which is most often an overgrowth of Malassezia yeast. Pick zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, selenium sulfide or salicylic acid, leave it on your scalp for 3 to 5 minutes, and use it two to three times a week.
If one shampoo stops working, rotating to a different active often helps. Here is how to match the ingredient to your scalp and your hair type.
What causes dandruff?
Dandruff is mostly caused by a reaction to Malassezia, a yeast that lives on everyone's scalp and feeds on scalp oil. Some people react to it with faster skin shedding, itch and flakes.
Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis sit on the same spectrum. Dandruff is the milder end, with white or yellowish flakes and some itch. Seborrheic dermatitis adds redness and greasy, yellow scale, and can show up on the eyebrows, the sides of the nose, behind the ears and on the chest.
Things that can make it worse include:
- Stress and lack of sleep
- Cold, dry weather
- Going a long time between washes, which lets oil build up
- Heavy oils and styling products left on the scalp
- Some medical conditions that affect the skin or immune system
Is it dandruff or dry scalp?
Dandruff flakes tend to be larger, oily or yellowish, and come with an oily scalp. Dry scalp flakes are small, white and powdery, and the skin elsewhere on your body usually feels dry too.
- Dandruff: greasy roots, bigger flakes, and itch that improves with medicated shampoo.
- Dry scalp: a tight feeling, fine flakes, worse in winter or after hot showers, and better with gentler cleansing and moisture.
- Contact irritation: itch, redness or burning soon after a new hair product or dye.
Using a strong medicated shampoo on a dry scalp can make it drier. If your skin runs dry all over, our dry skin treatment guide covers gentle habits that help your scalp too.
Which anti dandruff shampoo ingredient should you choose?
Start with zinc pyrithione or selenium sulfide for everyday flakes, and move to ketoconazole if those do not help. Add salicylic acid when you have thick, stuck-on scale.
- Zinc pyrithione: antifungal and antibacterial, and gentle enough for frequent use. A good first choice for mild dandruff.
- Ketoconazole: a strong antifungal aimed directly at Malassezia. Sold over the counter at 1% in the US, with a stronger version by prescription. Good for stubborn flakes and seborrheic dermatitis.
- Selenium sulfide: slows skin cell shedding and fights yeast. It works well, but it can leave a smell and may discolor light, gray or chemically treated hair if not rinsed out well.
- Salicylic acid: loosens and lifts scale rather than treating yeast. Best for thick buildup, and it can be drying.
- Coal tar: slows skin turnover and calms itch, and is also used for scalp psoriasis. It has a strong smell, can stain light hair, and can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so keep up a daily face sunscreen and cover your scalp outdoors.
- Ciclopirox: an antifungal sold as a prescription shampoo in the US and over the counter in some other countries.
How do you use anti dandruff shampoo correctly?
Massage it into your scalp, not just your hair, and leave it on for 3 to 5 minutes before rinsing. Contact time is what gives the active ingredient a chance to work.
- Wet your hair and scalp thoroughly.
- Apply a small amount directly to your scalp, section by section.
- Massage gently with your fingertips, not your nails.
- Leave the lather on for 3 to 5 minutes. Check the label, since some products give a specific time.
- Rinse well, especially with selenium sulfide or coal tar.
- Use conditioner on your lengths only, keeping it off the scalp.
Use it two to three times a week at first. Once the flakes settle, many people drop to once a week to keep them away, with a regular gentle shampoo on other days.
Should you rotate dandruff shampoos?
Yes, rotating can help if your shampoo seems to lose its effect. Switching between two different actives, such as ketoconazole and zinc pyrithione, gives your scalp more than one line of attack.
A simple plan is to alternate them on wash days, or use one for a few weeks and then switch. Give any new shampoo about four weeks of steady use before you decide it does not work.
Can you use anti dandruff shampoo on color-treated hair?
Yes, with a few precautions. Look for a formula labeled safe for color-treated hair, and focus the shampoo on your scalp rather than your lengths.
- Selenium sulfide and coal tar are the most likely to affect color, especially on blonde, gray or lightened hair.
- Zinc pyrithione and ketoconazole are usually gentler on color.
- Rinse with lukewarm water, not hot.
- Wait a couple of days after coloring before you use a medicated shampoo, and stop if your scalp stings.
How should you treat dandruff in curly or textured hair?
Apply the medicated shampoo to your scalp only, use it as often as your scalp needs, and condition your curls well afterward. Curly and coily hair is often washed less frequently, which gives oil and yeast more time to build up.
- Part your hair into sections and use an applicator bottle to reach the scalp.
- Let the lather sit for 3 to 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
- Follow with a rich conditioner or mask on your lengths.
- Keep heavy oils and butters off the scalp itself, since some oils can feed Malassezia.
- If you wear protective styles, ask your stylist about cleansing your scalp without taking the style down.
Not sure where your curls fall? Our hair type chart can help you tailor your wash routine.
When should you see a dermatologist about dandruff?
See a doctor or dermatologist if your scalp is inflamed, bleeding, spreading or not improving after about a month of regular medicated shampoo. These signs can point to something other than ordinary dandruff.
- Thick, silvery scale or patches that extend past your hairline
- Red, swollen, painful or oozing skin
- Bleeding, crusting or sores
- Hair loss in patches
- Flakes and redness spreading to your face, ears or chest
- Scaling or flakes in a baby or young child
A dermatologist can check for conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, a fungal infection or contact dermatitis, and can prescribe stronger treatment when you need it.
Questions people ask
How often should you use anti dandruff shampoo?
Start with two to three times a week until the flakes calm down. After that, once a week is often enough to keep them away. Use a mild shampoo on your other wash days.
Why does dandruff come back when I stop the shampoo?
Malassezia lives on everyone's scalp, so medicated shampoo controls dandruff rather than curing it. Most people need ongoing maintenance use. Flare-ups are common in winter and during stressful times.
Can anti dandruff shampoo cause hair loss?
Medicated shampoos used as directed are not generally linked to hair loss. You may notice more hairs in the drain after a long gap between washes, but those were already loose. If you see patchy loss or your scalp is sore, see a dermatologist.
Can I use dandruff shampoo on my face?
Some people use it on flaky patches around the eyebrows or nose, but facial skin is more sensitive. Ask a doctor or dermatologist first, and keep it out of your eyes.
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